The dryer runs a full hour and the towels come out damp. In West Ashley that is as often the vent as the heater, because the run under a 1960s ranch is long, and the humidity packs lint into felt. Our West Ashley dryer technician meters the heating element, the thermal fuse and the igniter, checks the vent, writes one price and repairs from the van.
Mon–Fri 8am–6pm · Sat 9am–3pm · same-day windows for a warm refrigerator
Same $99 diagnostic, same written quote, same written warranty on every machine we fix in West Ashley.

Under most of the ranches in Avondale, Byrnes Downs and South Windermere there is a crawlspace, and under the crawlspace vents there is thirty or forty years of lint. The dryer vent leaves the laundry room, drops through the floor, runs twenty feet of flexible duct through damp air, and exits somewhere near the carport. Lowcountry humidity turns loose lint in that run into a felt lining, airflow drops, the dryer overheats and pops its thermal fuse. The customer calls about no heat. The fuse is the part that failed; the vent is the reason it failed, and we deal with both.
The newer houses off Bees Ferry Rd have their own version of the problem. In Carolina Bay and Grand Oaks the laundry room is often on the second floor or in the middle of the plan, so the vent runs up through the roof or thirty feet sideways to an exterior wall. Those long runs kill airflow the same way, and the builder-grade dryers installed with them are now eight to fifteen years old, which is when heating elements, gas igniters and drum rollers go. We run 29407 and 29414 together, twenty minutes from the shop via I-526 over the Ashley River.
On an electric dryer this is the heating element or the thermal fuse; on gas it is the igniter, the flame sensor or the gas coils. We meter each in turn and replace the failed one from the van, then measure the exhaust airflow so the new part is not cooked by the same clogged vent.
Heat is present but cannot leave the drum fast enough. That is a vent problem in most West Ashley houses, sometimes a partly failed element or a cycling thermostat that trips early. We check airflow at the machine and at the exterior hood and tell you plainly which side the problem is on.
Drum rollers rust and flatten in humid laundry rooms, the idler pulley bearing dries out, and the felt drum seal wears through. A squeal that changes with drum speed is a roller or idler; a thump once per rotation is a flat spot or a worn glide. We replace the set, not one wheel.
Lint has reached the heater housing or the drum is rubbing on a failed roller. This is the one to stop using until we look at it. We open the cabinet, clear the lint from the housing and the blower, replace what is worn, and check that the high-limit thermostat still trips.
A dryer that hums but will not turn is a broken belt or a seized motor. One that will not respond at all is the door switch, the thermal fuse or the start switch. One that quits partway is a motor overheating on a clogged vent. Each has a meter test, and we run them in order.
The igniter glows, the gas valve coils fail to open, the flame never catches. On dryers past ten years it is nearly always the coil set, and we carry them for the common brands. We also confirm the vent is clear, because a hot, starved gas dryer is not something to leave in a closet.
We do not start by pulling parts. The technician runs the dryer, feels the exhaust, and puts a meter on the circuit the symptom points to: continuity on the element and fuses, resistance on the gas coils, voltage at the terminal block for an electric dryer that is only getting half its power. That last one turns out to be a tripped half of a double breaker more often than people expect. Then we measure airflow, because a dryer that failed from a blocked vent will fail again in a year if the vent stays blocked. You get the failed part named and one written price, with the $99 diagnosis already inside it.
Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore and Amana share most of their parts, and with GE, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire and Electrolux that covers nearly every dryer in West Ashley. We stock the elements, fuses, rollers, belts and igniters for them. Property managers with units along Sam Rittenberg Blvd and Ashley River Rd often ask us to check the vent at turnover, before a new tenant moves in, and that is a sensible use of a visit. Rentals get the tenant-at-the-door, owner-approves-by-text routine with the written warranty going to the owner. Book online and up to $20 comes off the repair. Decline the quote and $99 is the whole bill.
Usually the vent, especially in the Avondale and Byrnes Downs ranches where the run goes under the floor. We measure airflow at the machine and at the outside hood; a big drop between them means the duct. If the duct is fine, a partly failed element or a weak cycling thermostat is next, and we meter both.
We clear the lint from inside the dryer, the transition duct and the first stretch of the run on every heat-related visit, and we tell you plainly if the longer crawlspace or attic run needs a dedicated duct cleaning. What we will not do is replace a heating element and walk away from the vent that killed it.
The tests are different, the visit is not. Gas dryers fail on the igniter, the flame sensor and the valve coils; electric dryers on the element and the thermal fuse. Both get the same $99 diagnosis, one written number and the same written warranty. Both also get the vent checked, since airflow matters to either.
Yes. That is the standard arrangement for landlords across West Ashley. The tenant lets us in, we send you the written number by text, you approve, we repair, and the invoice and written warranty come to you. If a part must be ordered, the return visit has no second trip fee.
No. A burning smell means lint at the heater or a drum rubbing on a failed roller, and either can start a fire in a closet laundry. Unplug it or shut the gas valve and call. A dryer with a smell is treated like a warm refrigerator on our schedule: it goes to the front of the line.
Call (843) 969-4423 or send the form. Most requests get a callback within the hour in business time, with a real arrival window.
The technician tests the machine with a meter, names the failed part in plain words, and writes one flat price. The $99 is already inside it.
We stock the high-failure parts for the brands Lowcountry homes actually own, so most jobs close on the spot; ordered parts return with no second trip fee.
Full test cycle before we pack up, a tidy work area after, and a written warranty in your hand.
One call starts it: $99 diagnostic, written quote, repair from the van. Book online and up to $20 comes off the repair.