Lowcountry air is wet eleven months of the year, and dryers pay for it. Lint that would stay fluffy in a dry climate packs into felt here, drum rollers rust, and heating elements run long until they open. We repair gas and electric dryers across North Charleston and everything within about 35 minutes, with a meter, a written price, and the vent run checked before we leave.
Mon–Fri 8am–6pm · Sat 9am–3pm · same-day windows for a warm refrigerator
Same $99 diagnostic, same written quote, same written warranty on every machine we fix in North Charleston & the Charleston area.

Humidity is the story of dryer repair between the Ashley and the Cooper. Exhaust air leaving a drum at 130 degrees hits a vent pipe that has been sitting in 80 percent humidity, condenses, and glues lint to the wall of the duct. Over a few summers a four-inch pipe becomes a two-inch pipe. The dryer runs hotter, the thermal fuse opens, and one day the drum turns with no heat behind it. The pattern holds from Park Circle to Carolina Park, but the vent runs differ: crawlspace ducts under 1950s ranches in North Charleston and Hanahan, roof jacks on two-story houses in Nexton and Cane Bay, long flex runs behind stacked units in downtown closets.
Salt adds a second layer near the water. On Daniel Island, Sullivan’s Island, the Old Village and the peninsula, drum rollers, idler pulleys and the drum bearing corrode faster, and the first sign is a squeal that starts ten minutes into a cycle and stops when the metal warms. Inland in Ladson, Goose Creek and Summerville the problem is simpler: builder-grade dryers installed in 2005 with a plastic vent that was never replaced. A typical afternoon call from Crowfield Plantation: towels need two cycles, the top of the dryer is hot to the touch, and there is a faint scorched smell. That is a restricted vent and a fuse on its way out, and we handle both on the visit.
On an electric dryer this is a heating element, a thermal fuse or a high-limit thermostat, and the meter sorts them in minutes. On gas it is usually the igniter, the flame sensor or the gas valve coils. We replace the failed part, then check the vent, because a blocked vent is what killed the part.
Long dry times are almost always airflow. We measure the exhaust at the vent hood, pull the flex behind the machine, and check the lint duct inside the cabinet. If the duct is packed we clear it; if the moisture sensor bars are coated with softener film we clean them so the auto-dry cycle stops quitting early.
A squeal is a worn idler pulley or drum roller; a rhythmic thump is a flat spot on a roller or a torn drum seal; grinding is a glide or the rear bearing. All of these are wear parts we stock for the common brands, and the drum comes out on site so the fix is finished in one stop.
Stop using the dryer and call. The smell is usually lint that has migrated into the heater housing or around the burner and is charring. We open the cabinet, clear it completely, inspect the element or burner assembly for damage, and check the thermostats that should have shut things down earlier.
The motor hums but nothing moves: a broken belt, most of the time. No hum at all: a door switch, a start switch, a thermal fuse on some models, or the motor itself. We meter the switches first because they are cheap and common, then move to the motor only if the readings send us there.
Check both breakers first; an electric dryer runs on two and a tripped one leaves lights on with no heat. Beyond that it is a door switch, a start relay, a thermal fuse or a control board. Boards fail after summer surges across the Lowcountry, and we only replace one the meter proves dead.
Dryers are honest machines and the meter tells the truth quickly. An electric element should read a specific resistance; open means dead. A thermal fuse should read closed; open means the dryer overheated and the fuse did its job, which sends us to the vent for the reason. On gas units we watch the igniter glow, listen for the valve to open, and time how long the flame holds before the sensor drops out. Then we measure airflow at the exhaust, because a dryer with a strangled vent will burn through a new element in a season. All of that happens before you hear a price. When you do, it is one written number and the $99 diagnostic is inside it.
We keep elements, fuses, thermostats, igniters, flame sensors, coils, belts, rollers, pulleys and door switches on the van for Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, Amana, GE, Samsung, LG, Frigidaire and Electrolux, plus the compact Bosch and Miele ventless units that show up in condos on Daniel Island and the peninsula. Property managers with rental units from the Ashley Phosphate apartment belt to Goose Creek get one text with the written quote, and the invoice and written warranty by email once the tenant’s dryer is running. We work Monday to Saturday, six days a week. Approve the quote and the $99 is inside it; decline and $99 is the whole bill. Book online and up to $20 comes off the repair.
Every repair visit includes checking airflow and clearing the duct inside the cabinet and the flex behind the machine. If the run through a crawlspace or attic is packed and the dryer needs it cleared to work properly, we tell you what we found and what it takes, in writing, before doing anything else.
That is the classic failing flame sensor or a weak gas valve coil. The igniter glows, the valve opens for a second, the flame lights and then drops out, and the cycle repeats. Both are metered on the spot and both are stocked on the van, so this is usually a same-visit repair.
Not for long. Two-cycle drying means restricted airflow, and restricted airflow is how lint fires start. It is also burning twice the electricity or gas. Call, run the machine as little as possible until the visit, and we will find the restriction and the part it has already damaged.
Summerville is about twenty minutes up I-26 and Mount Pleasant about twenty-five over the Wando Bridge, and neither carries an extra charge. Most dryer calls anywhere in the Charleston area get a same-week window, often next day. Tell us if the dryer is stacked or in a closet so the technician plans the pull.
It covers the part we installed and the work of installing it, in writing, on the invoice you receive. If the same repair fails inside the warranty period we come back and make it right. It does not cover a different part failing later, which is why we tell you about anything else that looks tired while the cabinet is open.
Call (843) 969-4423 or send the form. Most requests get a callback within the hour in business time, with a real arrival window.
The technician tests the machine with a meter, names the failed part in plain words, and writes one flat price. The $99 is already inside it.
We stock the high-failure parts for the brands Lowcountry homes actually own, so most jobs close on the spot; ordered parts return with no second trip fee.
Full test cycle before we pack up, a tidy work area after, and a written warranty in your hand.
One call starts it: $99 diagnostic, written quote, repair from the van. Book online and up to $20 comes off the repair.