The display is blinking something at you. This page tells you what it usually means, sorted by machine and brand, so you can call with the right word. A code narrows the search; it does not name the part. That still takes a meter at your door, and the $99 for that diagnosis is inside the written repair price if you go ahead.
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An error code is the machine’s own diagnosis, and it is worth more than any description of the symptom. It tells us which circuit the control board gave up on — drain, fill, heat, door, motor, a sensor — and that tells us what to load on the van before we leave W Montague Ave. Photograph it as soon as you see it, because many codes clear when you cut power, and what remains is a story about damp towels. What a code does not do is name the failed part. A drain code covers a clogged filter, a dead pump, a kinked hose or a board that can’t hear the pump. Only a meter separates those.
Here is how a code becomes a number. You call or book online with the code and the brand. We arrive with the likely parts, test the circuit the code points to, and confirm the actual failure rather than the first thing on the list. Then we write one price. The $99 diagnostic is inside that number; approve it and you never pay the $99 separately. Decline and $99 is the whole bill, no pressure attached. Book online and up to $20 comes off the repair, never off the diagnostic. Most code-driven repairs close the same visit because we knew what to bring, and every one leaves with a full test cycle and a written warranty.
| Code | Brand | What it means | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|
| OE | LG | Drain fault — pump, filter, hose or pressure sensor | Clear the pump filter and hose, test the drain pump under power, check the pressure switch, replace what reads open |
| IE | LG | Fill fault — water not reaching the tub in time | Confirm both taps are open, clean the inlet screens, test the fill valve coils, replace the valve if a coil is dead |
| 5C / 5E / nd | Samsung | Drain not completing — pump, filter or drain hose | Clear the debris filter and hose, test the drain pump on the meter, replace the pump if the impeller or windings have failed |
| 4C / 4E | Samsung | Water supply fault — no or slow fill | Check supply pressure and screens, test the inlet valve solenoids, replace the valve or a failed water-level sensor |
| F21 / F9 E1 | Whirlpool · Maytag | Long drain — the tub is not emptying in the allowed time | Clear the pump trap of coins and lint, test the drain pump, check the pressure switch hose, replace the failed pump |
| F5 E2 / F5 E3 | Whirlpool · Maytag | Door lock fault — lock won’t engage or won’t release | Test the door lock assembly and its wiring, check the board output to the lock, replace the lock |
| E18 / E17 | Bosch | E18 drain time exceeded; E17 fill time exceeded | Clear the pump cover and impeller, test the drain pump or inlet valve, replace the failed one, verify a full cycle |
| E20 / E11 | Frigidaire | E20 water not pumping out; E11 fill too slow | Clear the pump housing, test the drain pump or inlet valve with a meter, replace the failed part and run a drain cycle |
| Code | Brand | What it means | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|
| d80 / d90 / d95 | LG | Flow Sense — exhaust vent 80 to 95 percent blocked | Measure airflow at the outside hood, clear the accessible run, correct crushed flex duct, retest until the bars clear |
| tE1 / tE2 | LG | Thermistor reading out of range | Test the thermistor resistance against temperature, check its wiring, replace it and verify the heat cycle |
| dE | LG | Door switch not seeing the door closed | Test the door switch and wiring, replace the switch, confirm the drum starts with the door shut |
| HC / HE / hE | Samsung | Heating fault — element, thermostat or gas igniter circuit | Test the element or igniter, thermal cut-off and thermostats, check the vent that caused the overheat, replace what reads open |
| tS / tO | Samsung | Thermistor shorted (tS) or open (tO) | Test the thermistor resistance and its harness for a break or short, replace it, then run a timed heat test |
| AF | Whirlpool · Maytag | Airflow restriction — vent or lint path blocked | Check airflow at the hood, clear the vent and blower housing, inspect the lint chute, verify cycle time drops |
| F22 / F23 | Whirlpool · Maytag | Exhaust thermistor open (F22) or shorted (F23) | Test the exhaust thermistor and its wiring, replace the thermistor, confirm the dryer cycles heat and shuts off normally |
| PF / L2 | Whirlpool · Maytag | PF power failure during a cycle; L2 low or missing line voltage | Check the outlet for both legs of 240 volts, test the cord and terminal block, repair the connection or refer a breaker issue |
| Code | Brand | What it means | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|
| Er FF / Er rF | LG | Freezer fan (FF) or fridge fan (rF) not turning | Test the fan motor and its feedback signal, clear ice from the fan, replace the motor or repair the harness |
| Er dH / Er dS | LG | Defrost not completing (dH) or defrost sensor fault (dS) | Test the defrost heater, sensor and fuse, clear the iced evaporator, replace the failed part |
| 21E / 22E | Samsung | Freezer fan (21E) or fridge fan (22E) fault, often from ice | Clear the ice, test the fan motor, check the defrost circuit that let the ice form, replace what failed |
| 84C / 85C | Samsung | Compressor lock (84C) or low voltage (85C) | Check supply voltage, test the inverter and compressor windings, replace the inverter or diagnose a compressor failure plainly |
| OF OF | Samsung | Cooling Off, or demo mode — the compressor is intentionally off | Exit the mode from the panel, then verify the compressor starts and the unit pulls down to temperature |
| SY EF / SY CE | Frigidaire | Evaporator fan circuit (SY EF) or board communication (SY CE) fault | Test the evaporator fan and harness or the boards, replace the failed part, confirm airflow |
| OP / SH | Frigidaire | A temperature sensor reading open (OP) or shorted (SH) | Identify which sensor by location, test it, replace it, verify the display reads actual cabinet temperature |
| PF / PO | GE · Whirlpool · KitchenAid | Power failure indicator — the unit lost power and may have warmed | Clear the indicator, verify temperatures recover, test the board and compressor if the unit does not cool normally |
| Code | Brand | What it means | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|
| F3 / F4 | Whirlpool · GE · KitchenAid | Oven temperature sensor open (F3) or shorted (F4) | Test the sensor resistance at room temperature, check the wiring, replace the sensor, confirm oven temperature |
| F2 / F10 | Whirlpool · GE · Frigidaire | Runaway temperature — the oven overheated or the board thinks it did | Test the sensor and relay board, check for a stuck bake relay, replace the failed part before the oven is used again |
| F5 / F9 | Whirlpool · GE | Door lock or latch circuit fault, often after a self-clean | Test the latch motor and its switches, free a latch stuck after self-clean, replace the failed component, verify the door releases |
| F7 / F1 | GE · Whirlpool | Stuck key or failed touchpad and control | Clean and test the keypad, check the ribbon connection, replace the touchpad or control board |
| F30 / F31 | Frigidaire · Electrolux | Oven probe sensor open (F30) or shorted (F31) | Test the probe resistance and its harness, replace the probe, verify oven temperature against a thermometer after preheat |
| F90 / F95 | Frigidaire · Electrolux | Door lock motor or lock switch circuit fault | Test the lock motor and switches, free the latch by hand if jammed, replace the failed lock assembly, confirm the door cycles |
| F9 | LG | Oven fails to heat — igniter, element or relay | Test the igniter draw or element resistance and the relay board, replace what failed, time the preheat |
| SE / -SE- | Samsung | Stuck key or shorted keypad | Cut power and retest; test the touch panel and its connector, replace the panel or control board if it repeats |
| Code | Brand | What it means | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|
| OE | LG | Drain fault — water not leaving the tub | Clear the filter and drain hose, check the disposal knockout and air gap, test the drain pump, replace it if dead |
| 5C / 5E / 4C / 4E | Samsung | 5C drain not completing; 4C water not filling | Clear the drain path or supply screens, test the drain pump or inlet valve, replace the failed part |
| LC / LE | Samsung | Leak sensor tripped — water in the base | Locate the leak, replace the failed gasket, hose or pump seal, dry the base and confirm the sensor clears |
| Clean light flashes 7 times | Whirlpool · KitchenAid · Kenmore | Heating fault — element, thermistor or the heater circuit | Test the heating element and thermistor, check the board relay, replace what reads open, verify a hot wash |
| E15 | Bosch | Water in the base pan has tripped the flood switch | Find and repair the leak, dry the base pan, reset the float, run a full cycle to confirm |
| E24 / E25 | Bosch | Drain fault — hose, filter, impeller or pump | Clear the filter and pump impeller, check the drain hose and disposal knockout, test the pump, replace it if failed |
| i30 | Frigidaire | Leak detected — water in the base | Locate the leak, replace the gasket, hose or seal that failed, dry the base, clear the code |
| i20 / i40 / iF0 | Frigidaire | Drain restriction — filter, hose or pump | Clear the filters and drain path, test the drain pump, replace it if the impeller or motor has failed |
| Code | Brand | What it means | What we do |
|---|---|---|---|
| Er IF | LG | Ice fan not turning or not reporting | Clear ice from the fan, test the motor and feedback, replace the fan or repair the harness |
| Er IS | LG | Ice maker sensor fault | Test the sensor and its harness, replace the sensor or the ice maker assembly it is built into |
| 8E / 14E | Samsung | Ice maker sensor fault | Test the sensor, check the ice room temperature and fan, replace the sensor or ice maker assembly |
| 26E | Samsung | Water valve fault — the fill valve is not responding | Test the valve coil and board output, check the fill tube, replace the valve, verify fill volume |
| 33E | Samsung | Ice pipe (fill tube) heater fault | Thaw the fill tube, test the heater and harness, replace the heater, run several harvests |
| 39E / 39C | Samsung | Ice maker function error — module, motor or harvest fault | Force a harvest, test the module motor and sensors, replace the ice maker assembly if it fails the test |
| 40E / 40C | Samsung | Ice room fan fault | Clear ice from the fan, test the motor, check the door gasket that let moisture in, replace the fan |
| No code shown | Whirlpool · KitchenAid · GE · Frigidaire | Most built-in ice makers post no code — the bin just stays empty | Run the harvest test, check freezer temperature, fill volume and the valve, test the module, name the part |
Usually not. Cutting power clears the display, not the cause, and the code returns the next time the machine reaches the step that failed. Photograph the code before you reset so we have it, then run the machine once more if it is safe to do so. A code that does not come back after a single reset may have been a one-time event, such as a Lowcountry storm surge tripping a board.
No, and we would rather not guess. A drain code, for example, can be a filter, a pump, a hose or a board, and those are different repairs. The code tells us what to bring so the visit closes in one trip. The technician tests the circuit, names the part and writes one number, with the $99 diagnostic already inside it. Decline and $99 is the whole bill.
Hurricane-season surges and brownouts are hard on inverter compressors and control boards. A brief voltage drop can trip a compressor lock or power-failure code even when nothing has failed; a real surge can damage the board. If the unit cools normally after the code clears, note the date. If codes repeat or cooling suffers, we test the board and inverter and usually recommend a surge protector.
Because the dryer measures its own airflow and temperature, and a blocked vent looks like a heating problem from inside the drum. In humid climates lint packs into felt, and in raised houses with long crawlspace vent runs it happens fast. Clearing the vent fixes the code and protects the thermal fuse and element; ignoring it leads to a no-heat call a season later.
LG, Samsung and Bosch post the most specific codes; Frigidaire and Electrolux are close behind. Whirlpool, Maytag and KitchenAid mix display codes with blink patterns on the lights, and GE ranges post clear F-codes while GE refrigerators mostly show a power-failure flag. Older machines and many ice makers post nothing at all. In every case the code is a starting point and the meter finishes the job.
Washer Repair$99 diagnostic · up to $20 off online
Dryer Repair$99 diagnostic · up to $20 off online
Refrigerator & Freezer Repair$99 diagnostic · up to $20 off online
Stove, Range & Oven Repair$99 diagnostic · up to $20 off online
Dishwasher Repair$99 diagnostic · up to $20 off onlineIce Maker Repair$99 diagnostic · up to $20 off onlineTell us the code and the machine — the van arrives already loaded. $99 diagnostic, inside the repair.